Bilayer fabrics as such have no front side, which is why such fabrics are labeled as "double" or "double face". Products sewn from double-faced fabrics can be worn on both sides.
The main characteristic feature of double fabrics is that their layers are separated. The creation of such fabrics is possible by means of a two-layer weaving, due to which two fabrics are connected at once.
Moreover, this method allows you to connect two fabrics in the same fabric that are different in composition, texture and color. A similar combination is used to achieve spectacular contrasts in one product, for example, in a coat - on lapels, collars, lapels, and a belt.
In products from two-layer fabrics, the details do not duplicate, they do not have a lining, double parts such as a collar, the inner part of the collar and the upper collar. Sew them in a special way, in which meticulous manual work takes over 50%! All seams of the outer layer of the product are made on a sewing machine, and the inner - exclusively by hand, or vice versa. Also, all external open slices are processed manually.
Products from double fabrics are obtained especially light, but at the same time very warm, extraordinary, with a peculiar optical illusion of perception of the model. Each copy is a work of high sewing. To achieve a perfect result, high precision is required when performing sewing work at each stage. Then you can really boast of a true exclusive.
When choosing two-layer fabrics, it is worth giving preference only to high-quality materials from premium raw materials - alpaca, cashmere, pure sheep and camel wool. This is due to the large labor costs that are inevitable for the implementation of such a sewing project.
Alpaca is a priceless gift of nature
What is cashmere: features of luxury woolen fabric
The processing of two-layer fabrics has a number of features. All seams, including cuts at the bottom of the product and sleeves, along the edge of the side, collar are made "clean", in other words, closed, which allows you to wear the finished thing on both sides.
How to cut parts from two-layer fabrics
Before proceeding with the cutting of parts of a product from a two-layer fabric, sew a model layout and make any changes and corrections to it.
Cut out the product details with allowances in all sections - 1 cm.
How to decorate cashmere coat
Preparation of parts for grinding
Determine the width of the future allowance:
in thin two-layer fabrics, the width of the seam in the finished form will be approximately 0.5-0.7 cm, if the fabric is thick, the allowance and seam will be larger.
Fix the layers of two-layer fabric with each other:
on the edges of all parts at a distance of 1.5 cm from the cut, lay a notched line on the sewing machine with a maximum stitch length.
Depending on the thickness of the fabric, the notched stitch can be located at a greater distance from the cut, and the width of the seam in the finished form will increase accordingly.
After the seam has been processed, the marking line will need to be removed.
Laminate the fabric:
Use small, sharp-pointed scissors to delaminate all sections to the exact mark. This is a necessary condition for making smooth seams of the same shape and thickness.
How to grind parts from two-layer fabrics and process seams
Unstitched seams
Fold the parts together and sew on the sewing machine only the sections of the outer fabric layers, stepping back from the marked line approx. 0.7 cm (in my case it is half the width of the foot).
In this case, slices of the inner layers of parts should in no case fall under the line.
Flatten the seam allowances of the outer layer.
Turn the sections of the inner layers inward and press them (or pin them with pins), while the bends should be butt-to-face.
For convenience, you can outline allowances.
Sew in the folds of the inner layers manually with hidden stitches.
Basic Hand Stitches
Remove the marking line.
Iron the seam slightly on both sides. It will turn out to be slightly convex, similar in shape to a small roller.
Stitching seams
Processing of two-layer fabrics with a seam by ironing forms a more pronounced decorative roller, in contrast to unzipped seams.
Determine in which direction the seam allowances will be directed, for example, to the back or to the shelves.
After stitching, delaminate the slices on only one part! For example, sections of the side seams of the back.
Fold the parts with each other and grind them, departing from the notched line of 0.7 cm, capturing only a section of the outer layer of the part, towards which the seam allowances will be directed.
Cut the seam allowances to 0.7 cm and iron towards the inner layer of the part.
Turn the slice of the inner layer of the part inward so that it overlaps the sewing line of the parts. Pin or bite and iron.
Sew manually with hidden stitches.
Remove the marking line.
Processing slices of parts from two-layer fabrics
Slices along the bottom of the product, sleeves, along the edge of the collar, collar or neck without collar in products from two-layer fabrics are processed the same way, regardless of which method of processing the seams you have chosen, ironing or straightening.
For open sections of parts, lay a notched stitch with a maximum stitch length at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge (in more toast fabrics - 2 cm).
Use small, sharp-pointed scissors to delaminate open sections to the exact mark.
Unscrew the slices inward exactly to the marked line, bast and iron.
Sew bent sections manually with each other in secret stitches.
Remove the marking line.
Processing the corner of parts from two-layer fabrics
For open cuts of parts 1.5 cm from the edge, lay a notched stitch on a sewing machine with a maximum stitch length.
Turn to the other side precisely so that the line forms a right angle.
Use small, sharp-pointed scissors to delaminate open sections.
Unscrew the slices inward exactly to the marked line, bast and iron.
In the corners of the sections turn in one direction.
Sew bent sections manually with each other in secret stitches.
Remove the marking line.
Ready-made
Few brands boast finished products from double fabrics sewn in the original technique. The fact is that the “invisible” method of processing seams requires not only skill, but also a lot of patience of the craftswoman. Each stitch of a closed seam, made by hand, must be in its place, and there will be a lot of such stitches in one product. A professional master can take up to three days to create one coat!
Fashion designers of the famous Italian brand MaxMara were one of the first to actively apply such a technique.
And today they are the absolute favorites, creating models of two-layer fabrics with closed seams, made exclusively by hand.
This is not the first year in the collections of MaxMara there are more and more new clothing models made in such an interesting technique for processing seams.
How to sew a two-layer skirt based on Max Mara
Mostly - coats, impeccable and incredibly elegant. Why not inspiration for your own project ?!
A few tips:
✂ If necessary, reinforce individual seams, for example, shoulder, with a narrow strip cut along the oblique from a thin strong fabric, adjusting it to the seam allowance.
✂ If the two-layer fabric is two-color or the layers differ in composition and texture, determine which of the layers will be done with the seams closed by hand, and which on the sewing machine (small samples will be enough).
✂ Try to select the threads exactly to the tone so that they are not visible.
✂ If the fabric is with a directed pile or pattern, pay attention to the fact that in the seams and in the details of the product this direction should coincide.
✂ Use stitches of contrasting color to sew the basting.
The author of the master class and photo of the process: Julia Dekanova
Samples and photos of fabrics for the master class provided by: @tkani.andreana
Coat photo: Max Mara
