In cinemas there is a new documentary about Vivienne Westwood. In our review, a story about this film, plus the second part of a selection of documentary films about fashion designers and fashion, released earlier.
1. "Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist" / Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist
2018, United Kingdom, director Lorna Tucker
Cast: Vivienne Westwood
The new documentary dedicated to one of the main designers and prominent personalities of our time, Vivienne Westwood, is not an ordinary biopic with chronologically arranged events, but rather a film-impression, a story about the main character as a person who can change the world around him. Of course, there is a lot of direct speech and documentary filming - not only about fashion, but also about the activities of Vivienne as an activist interested in the fate of all mankind. In addition to Westwood herself in the film, you will see and hear a ton of other characters involved in one way or another in her life and work - among them are close people and family members, and stars of the fashion world. However, most of the statements throughout the tape are made, of course, by Westwood herself. She shares her memories and her thoughts, both positive and vice versa, sincerely and directly - for example, telling that she had previously felt herself “like from another planet” or stating that she’s not too happy with what is happening in her company, since that "got too big", which led to the complication of relations. “Every time I come up with a thing, it should have its own character,” Westwood says, and these words largely convey the essence and philosophy of her fashion, which again and again confirms the title of the icon for its creator.
10 couturier documentaries
2. "Alexander McQueen" / McQueen and I
2011, UK, director Louise Osmond
Cast: Detmar Blow, Isabella Blow, Naomi Campbell, Tom Ford, Jody Kidd, Julien MacDonald Adler, Stephen MacIntosh, Alexander McQueen, Kate Moss
The film about another fashion designer who knew how to do things with character, Alexander McQueen, was shot as a dedication (McQueen passed away in 2010). The documentary describes in some detail the beginning and dizzying career development of the “bully” designer and rebel, who sought to appeal to the emotions of the viewer with his work, but failed to overcome his depression, which led to suicide. The film did not collect McQueen’s most famous interviews, filming moments of his work and show, and the memories of friends and colleagues.
3. "Yves Saint Laurent. Everything is terrible" / Yves Saint Laurent. Tout terriblement
1994, director Jerome de Missolz
Cast: Yves Saint Laurent
Probably the most obscure film about Yves Saint Laurent. It’s worth finding and watching the tape, if only because the couturier’s documentary filming is at work, from the moments of sketching to the bustle of backstage, and the show is commented on by the master throughout the film: his voice is always overs. “I invented the past of a modern woman, I offered her her future, and it will last long after my death,” the fashion designer says optimistically, emphasizing that at the same time, his style, without dictating strict rules, always allowed and allows the woman to maintain her individuality.
4. September issue / The september issue
2009, USA, director R.J. Cutler
Cast: Andre Leon Talley, Grace Coddington, Anna Wintour, Hamish Bowles, Sarah Brown, Charles Churchward, Oscar de la Renta, Patrick Demarchell, Jill Demling
One of the most famous fashion films, revealing to the viewer the "kitchen" of work on the creation of the September 2007 issue of Vogue - the thickest issue in the history of the magazine at that time.Preparing for the shoot and directly fashionable photo shoots, working on the magazine’s “face” - the cover, fashion shows with comments by the head of the magazine, one of the main personalities of the fashion industry, Anna Wintour, as well as her relationship with Vogue creative director Grace Coddington and other team members.
The history of fashion shows and Fashion Weeks: from private shows to grand shows
5. "Pavilions" / The Tents
2012, USA, director James Belser
Cast: Terry Edgins, J. Alexander, Max Azria, Glenda Bailey, Jeff Banks, Ivan Bart, Phillip Bloch
A documentary about the structure and history of Fashion Weeks in New York - in all their luxury and splendor and all their backstage bedlam and insanity. The title of the film is a reference to the times when the New York Weeks were shown in white tents in Bryant Park. Bedlam and madness were mostly happening then and there: the wiring could break out, the false ceiling could fall, and the show could end with the arrival of a police outfit (the famous phrase “We love fashion but are not ready to die for it” went down in history just after one of such incidents) . Until 2010, when the shows were moved to the Lincoln Center due to the large number of visitors, the Weeks were held in the same tents.
In the film, you can see and hear fashion luminaries such as Carolina Herrera, Suzy Menkes, Betsy Johnson, Donna Karan, Isaac Mizrahi and many others who share their secrets and attitudes towards NYFW.
6. "Gabrielle Chanel. Immortal style" / Gabrielle Chanel. La permanence d'un style
2001, France, director Elodie Leonard
Cast: Coco Chanel
A tape about the history of the Chanel fashion house and the biography of Mademoiselle Coco herself. Documentary shots from the shows, comments by relatives, colleagues (including the employees of her studio), stories of researchers of the heritage of the fashion designer and brand - and, most importantly, the shootings and interviews of Chanel herself. Unlike several films where the role of Coco was performed, for example, by Audrey Tautou (2009), Shirley MacLane (2008) or Keira Knightley (2013), this tape makes it possible to see and hear the real and living Chanel.
7. "Unshipped" / Unzipped
1995, USA, director Douglas Keev
Cast: Isaac Mizrahi, Carla Bruni, Naomi Campbell, Helena Christensen, Cindy Crawford
The film shows the preparation process by the American designer (now more likely a media character) Isaac Mizrahi fall-winter 1994/1995 collection. The tape is called one of the most honest and sincere documentaries about fashion. There is not much pomposity and glamor that is often present in the movies about fashion designers, but there are frank confessions of Mizrahi himself, who has achieved success over the course of his career, or, on the contrary, that has failed, about feelings and doubts that overcome him both during the work and after . Perhaps this film turned out to be so personal and unusual because it was shot by Douglas Keev, at that time - the designer’s boyfriend. One way or another, the film certainly matches the name - fashion stars do not so often share their thoughts and feelings so sincerely.
8. "Bill Cunningham New York" / Bill Cunningham New York
2010, director Richard Press
Cast: Bill Cunningham, Edita Sherman, Patrick MacDonald, Carmen Del'Orefise, Annette De La Renta, Anna Wintour, Iris Apfel
Bill Cunningham was called the "passionate fashion chronicler and incredible cultural anthropologist," the "street style father" and streetstyle photography veteran. It was Cunningham 40 years ago that became the founder of the "street" trend of fashion shooting. In 1978, he photographed Greta Garbo on the street, the picture was printed by The New York Times, the photo attracted attention - and Cunningham continued to photograph on the streets, capturing interestingly dressed people for fashion history, whether they were celebrities or passers-by not familiar to him, but The New York The Times continued to print his photographs. About Bill Cunningham, his work and his role in the fashion industry in the film, they say including Anna Wintour and Michael Kors.
