Dressing up your man: how a jacket should sit

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Choose a men's jacket that would fit perfectly, not just even the men themselves! We offer you a small guide that will facilitate the task.

A jacket is just as necessary in a men's wardrobe as a dress in a women's one. Moreover, unlike the same dress, which can be anything from chintz summer to silk evening, a jacket is most often a status item and simply will not tolerate negligence in choosing. If your man clearly needs help choosing a jacket, we offer you a small guide that will simplify the task.

Length

The length of the jacket is perhaps the most important parameter on which the general appearance will depend. A long jacket would be unprofitable to resemble a frock coat, and too short (unless it is now a fashionable shortened style!) Will impress things “from someone else’s shoulder”. For classic jackets, an ancient and infallible rule applies - "the lower edge should be at the level of the knuckles."

• Slim Fit Jacket • Slim fit jacket • Classic jacket
This length is as balanced and win-win as possible, but modern fashion trends, as one would expect, eagerly overthrow the classical foundations, so shortened jackets can now be far from uncommon, and such a detail will not be considered an omission and a flaw, but we should not forget that a short jacket visually conceals the growth of its owner.

There is also a recommendation to choose such a length of the jacket that will cover the buttocks. This is partly true, but the rule should be adapted to a specific figure. A more universal tip - make sure that visually the lower edge of the jacket divides the distance from the collar to the floor in half. So the general view will be as harmonious as possible.

Width

The gold standard is "the jacket should sit like a glove", in other words, surplus in volume, as well as tight-fitting to folds are in no way permissible! The shoulder seam should be exactly in place, and the shoulder line should be perfectly flat, duplicating the natural line of the shoulders. If it is bent, goes in a wave, and the sleeve puffs or hangs over the shoulder, then the jacket must either be customized or another one should be sought.
Otherwise, it all depends on the features of the figure, which can be adjusted using a jacket. For example, with regard to the shoulders, the following rule works for any style: the shoulders of the jacket end where the shoulders of the man are, however, if he has sloping or narrow shoulders, this feature can be adjusted by choosing a jacket a little wider than necessary.

In the chest, a fit is preferable, sufficient to allow you to stick your palm, but not your fist. This rule is not strict, therefore variations are admissible.

Back

The back of a quality product should be completely smooth - without wrinkles and creases, while the slot should not diverge, even when the jacket is buttoned.
It would be useful to mention one feature that is not of fundamental importance, but still important - some tailors believe that the front should be slightly longer than the back, so do not be surprised if you suddenly come across such a detail.

Sleeve

• Correct length • Sleeve too short • Sleeve too long •
The length of the sleeve should, with the hand down, reach the base of the brush. The sleeves of a properly selected jacket should be 1-1.5 cm shorter than the sleeves of a shirt, and the palm should be fully visible. Most often, the length of the sleeve of the jacket reaches the bone on the wrist.

Collar

The collar should fit perfectly to the neck - not the slightest gaps are allowed.
Also, in a well-stitched jacket, the lapels fit snugly on the sides, and end 2–3 centimeters above the first button. The standard width of the lapels is 7-12 centimeters.

Buttons

No matter how many buttons on the chosen jacket, fasten the first one and evaluate the result - if the fabric is stretched, and you see folds in the form of the letter X, which should not be there, it means that the jacket is tight in the waist area and it is better to try a size larger.
By the way, three-button jackets are now in fashion, and stylists advise men to fasten only the top two or only the middle one. This option will be quite informal, so it is better for business men to adhere to a strict dress code and choose models with two buttons.
Photo: pinterest.com, burdastyle.ru

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