Creation

Coat 2013 - 2014

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We choose what we like: the Diorovsky new look, the silhouette of the “barrel”, a straight coat of leather, a classic ... And the details, details, details in which, as you know, "a charming little devil" is hidden!

The latest haute couture trends - inspired by the ideas of professional designers and add your own details to Burda patterns!

So the summer ended, it got colder, the rains charged. We again sort out the wardrobe, remove summer topics and dresses, and get warm clothes until the next season. Of course, it will not hurt to sew a couple of new dresses and suits, skirts and - necessarily - blouses and blouses. But first of all, we meticulously examine the old coat: outerwear for every day will have to serve us for several months. And every day, leaving the house, we will wear the same thing? No, this is not for creative natures, not for those who like to sew. Another coat will never be superfluous!

Moreover, if you sew on super-precise Burda patterns and at the same time fantasize "in favor" of your figure - here, a little bit to remove in the side seams, here a little change the shape and size of the lapels, here at the waist add a tuck, supplement the model with a belt or radically change its length ...

SILHOUETTES

In Favorites - freely falling, barrel-shaped silhouettes that create the feeling that the coat is chosen one or two sizes larger. Superactual adjoin them capes - which, of course, are ideal for long gloves and ankle boots, and for short ones - high boots or over the knee boots. On wide wraps, the uneven lower edge looks spectacular - shorter in front (in this case, you need to take care of the presence of a beautiful lining, better in contrasting color).

In fashion twinsets - "deuces": they can consist of a cape and a long jacket of the same material. Designers even propose to put one coat on another, and the first one must be worn either unbuttoned or wrap and belted.

You can go further and sew an ensemble of more details: a short coat, blouse and trousers made of the same fabric, for example.

Narrowed straight the silhouettes go well with cropped sleeves and long gloves. But the shortened sleeves are already being replaced with very long raglan sleeves - they are ideally suited to the emphasized free, slightly sloppy silhouette (the one that looks a size or two larger).

To such silhouettes it is often recommended to sew an additional belt (either tied or with a buckle, it is possible not from a coat fabric, but from leather or suede and even from colorful fabric) and wear a coat with or without it.

With a belt tied, they are sewing now andsmelly a coat without a fastener at all. Tip: it is for such a coat that you can sew a suit or a “bottom” coat of the same fabric.

Still the most relevant length around knees - slightly higher or slightly lower.

COLOR AND FABRIC

On the catwalks, the calm shades of beige, brown, green are complemented by bright or saturated colors: luminous orange-red, wine-red, and purple. Patterned fabrics are almost completely extruded plain with applications in a different shade.

Actual fabric into the cagemoreover, when sewing a coat with a “cage”, it is better to play by cutting the fabric in different directions Or choose an exclusive and very complex cage pattern.

If you don’t like the cell, take a closer look at the pattern. glenchek (or "chicken foot", sometimes in the most fantastic forms, for example, when a super-large glenchek is superimposed on a very small one) or to the fabric inwide transverse strip. Contrary to popular belief, a transverse strip, if it is wide enough, does not fade, especially if sewn on top of it lace motifsare larger in height than in width.

Leather and thin suede - also in favorites.Thin suede is more suitable for summer coats, which in general may resemble dresses or refined home robes.

In fashion quilted fabrics - both a small stitch, and figured and large. Modern high-tech and very expensive fabrics - for those who can afford it. Of course, such a coat is sewn for more than one season and often for special occasions.

And lovers of knitting can knit a very topical coat or warm wrap this season thick yarn. It is important that it be seen that this is manual work.

DETAILS

Collars - either voluminous, even of gigantic size, or classic, or - new! - A sports “stand” from knitwear in elastic band as on fashionable summer blouses with a zipper in retro style. The last option can be supplemented with knitted cuffs.

Collars can also be double - when a highly buttoned "shirt" collar or a stand-up collar with a zipper is visible from under the first collar with lapels (the last part is often found on warm jackets).

Small "blouse" collars for coats made of soft and plastic warm fabric are also in fashion, and such collars can be sewn from shiny blouse fabrics of the same color or from short-faux faux fur. Ideally, such collars look for a coat in the style of new look.

For leather coats, there was a tendency to sew them without a collar at all (however, not only for leather, but for the latter it is more relevant), often such coats are sewn with a shortened sleeve.

By the way, it has become fashionable to wear a classic collar with lapels raised up, and under them not to tie scarves and scarves, but to do with a turtleneck or blouse with a high collar of a suitable color.

Scarves from the same fabric, moreover, tied under a highly buttoned collar. Once fashionable silk neckerchiefs are now more often used as decor for pockets, handbags, or simply thread them into the loop of a coat and knotted.

Coquette and Drape a variety of shapes and sizes. The drape can be limited to just a sleeve round, and the coquette can be copied from a man’s shirt.

Pockets: slotted into the frame, with wide and narrow edges, with valves, it is possible with several in a row. By the way, large valves go well with wide pats on the sleeves and large collars and lapels.

Bottom edge it’s still fashionable to pick up, a new trend is to make it uneven, longer at the back.

Still a few little things Note: buttons covered with the same fabric, appliqués made of thick lace or voluminous from another fabric, a knotted belt made of colorful companion fabric or just from a suitable light scarf, flower brooches made of fabric and lace, embroidery (for a coat, do not be trifled, embroider great motifs!).

ACCESSORIES

I wrote about scarves above, in the Details (they really become details of the coat trim). Do not forget abouthats - This season they are in fashion, primarily with wide brim.

Bags - Large, with elaborate finishes, including fur or fully stitched from fur (an option not only for winter). As a rule, bags are now worn not over the shoulder, but in the hand.

Very fashionable attribute - gloves: for a shortened sleeve or for wraps it is long, sometimes above the elbow; for a sleeve with knitted cuffs, they can be shortened. Gloves can be intricately trimmed, like a bag, but most fashion designers offer to limit themselves to noble classic minimalism.

Put on short ankle boots or boots with high shafts and over the knee boots - depends on the length of the coat and on the image. Knitted and sewn from different materials are still relevant for young people. gaiters. Closed shoes sandals on a stable heel completely replaced the sandals - this season the latter do not wear even with a light coat.

And another nuance: Colour gloves and shoes do not have to match.

Photo: BOYKO; SHEMTROVA.

Material prepared by Elena Karpova

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